Now is the Time to Finish Those Roof Repairs

By Paul Bianchina

Winter is closing in, and if you have some roof repairs that need doing, now is the time. For missing or damaged shingles, you will first need to locate and measure the areas that need repair, and then add approximately 10% to the total repair area to calculate how many shingles you'll need - the additional materials are necessary for weaving the new shingles into the existing ones.

Take a sample shingle from the repair area and check with your local home center or roofing material supplier. Wood shakes and shingles are easy to match, although the new cedar will be considerably lighter and more yellow than what's existing on the roof - the new shingles will weather to match the old ones in about two to four years. Composition shingle colors come from the granules embedded in the top layer of the shingle, and you may find shingles that are an exact match or ones that are only relatively close. Darker composition shingles will lighten somewhat over time after exposure to sunlight and dust, but the difference won't be as dramatic as with wood.

If the roofing felt is missing or torn, you'll need to replace it as well. For composition and wood shingles, use 15-pound felt and staple it down to the roof sheathing first, overlapping from the bottom up just like the shingles. For wood shakes, strips of 30-pound felt called shake liner are installed as each course of the shakes is put down - you can see the pattern by looking at the existing shingles in the area you're repairing.

Start from the bottom of the repair area and work up. Use the existing shingles as a guide for aligning your rows, snapping a chalk line as a visual reference if needed for longer runs. When you reach the top of the repair area, you'll need to lift the existing shingles and work the new shingles underneath them. Composition shingles will usually lift easily if they're warm, but may snap in colder weather, so be careful. Wood shakes and shingles can be lifted gently, then pressed back into place after the new shingles have been worked underneath - if the shingles or shakes are old, they're very prone to cracking, and you may find them easier to work with after a prolonged period of rain, when the wood is slightly moist and a little more pliable.

Keep all nails in locations that will be covered by the shingles above. If that's not possible, use a small dab of roofing cement - available in cans or caulking tubes - to seal any exposed nail heads against moisture.

Flashing Repairs

Metal flashings can be found around plumbing pipes, chimneys, flue pipes, attic vents, skylights, and in areas where the roof meets a wall, chase, or other vertical surface. Flashings should be checked to make sure they are not loose, and that they haven't slipped down to a point where water can get underneath the metal from above. In the case of flashings around pipes and flues, you need to check for a tight and continuous seal between the flashing and the pipe - loose fittings, dented metal, or worn and cracked rubber gaskets on the flashing can lead to areas where water can work its way in.

Depending on the type and location of the flashings, roofing tar or silicone or butyl rubber sealants can be used to seal small cracks and gaps. Be sure the flashings are clean and dry, and apply the sealant material carefully to ensure a good, solid seal. If the flashings are damaged or missing, new flashings can be installed in much the same manner as patching in shingles - work the new flashing into place so that the lower portion is over the shingles below it, and the upper portion is under the shingles above it. Again, seal any exposed nail heads.

Cleaning

Cleaning the roof of debris is an often-overlooked but very important repair. Use a rake, broom or electric leaf blower - gas-powered blowers can be too dangerous to use on a dry roof - and remove any loose leaves or pine needles. Be careful around both leaves and needles - they are loose and unstable to walk on, especially on steeper-pitched roofs, and any recent rains can make them very slippery as well.

Check the roof for overhanging tree limbs, which can be bad for your roof in several ways: limbs will continue to shed leaves or pine needles onto the roof, presenting a fire hazard; as the limbs move in the wind, they can rub against the roofing and wear away or even break up shingles; they shade the roof and can contribute to mold growth in wet climates; and there is a greater chance of damage from impact should the limb ever break off. Consider trimming back overhanging limbs to lessen these potential dangers.

Finally, clean your gutters of leaves, pine needles and other debris. Clogged gutters can back water up under the shingles and cause leaks, and they also contribute greatly to the potential for fire danger.

Remember to use all necessary safety precautions - and common sense -- when working on a roof, and call on a professional roofer for any repairs you're not fully comfortable undertaking on your own.

Copyright Inman News Features. Distributed by Inman News Features.